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Plumbing for Real Life: Showers, Hot Water, and Fast Drains
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton explains why van plumbing stops feeling “simple” once you live with it – then shows how he plans showers, tanks, hot water, and drain speed so the system feels normal, works daily, and stays serviceable without tearing the van apart. This is the eighth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Plumbing is one of those systems people assume will be simple until they live with it. A slow sink, a shower that backs up, or a leak you can’t reach turns “minor” decisions into daily frustration. My plumbing philosophy is pretty consistent. I want it to feel normal. I want drains that actually drain, water pressure that feels usable, and a setup I can service without tearing the van apart. Plumbing Starts With One Honest Question Do you want a shower, or just a sink? Most plumbing decisions get easier once you answer that. A sink-only build can be straightforward. A shower changes the whole system – tank sizing, hot water, drain design, and where everything lives. For me, showers matter enough that they show up early in layout. Once the bed decision is made, shower and bathroom decisions are right behind it because they’re big space claims and big system drivers. Why I’m Pro-Shower I’ve lived the “no shower” idea. In theory, it sounds fine – gyms, campgrounds, whatever. In reality, I didn’t use the gym showers, and I never found campground showers I actually wanted to use. I’ve also had an outdoor shower, and where I camped it often turned into either a mess or a privacy problem. After that, I stopped treating a shower as optional. If I’m going to build a van I’ll actually want to live in, I need an indoor shower, and I plan the plumbing, tanks, and hot water around that from the start. I Plumb It Like a House Drain speed matters more than people think There’s almost nothing I hate more than a slow drain, especially in a shower. I’ve used inch-and-a-half drains because I want sinks and showers to drain like a normal home. That’s a big reason I avoid the typical RV drain kit approach. A lot of RV drain kits rely on small expandable hose. That can be fine with tiny RV sinks and low flow, but many of my builds use real sinks and faucets. If your drain can’t keep up, you feel it every day. Sequence Matters I like to plumb while the van is still open Plumbing is easier when access is good. Once walls and cabinets are finished, it gets harder to route lines, mount tanks, and fix mistakes cleanly. One workflow I’ve used is setting the shower and the sink base after the floor is in, then plumbing behind the cabinets while everything is open. I’d rather do that work early rather than “finish the van” and then realize I buried something important. Build It So You Can Fix It Even good plumbing needs attention. You’ll change things. You’ll add something. A fitting will eventually need service. I plan for that. For connections, I’ve used PEX with quick disconnects instead of crimp-on connections because it makes modifications and repairs much more realistic. If a repair requires cutting everything apart, people avoid fixing things until they become bigger problems. I’ve also used an accumulator tank with the pump because it helps water delivery feel smoother and less chattery. Tanks and Plumbing Layout One tank, or split by side, depending on the footprint Tank layout is partly about your needs and partly about your floor plan. If the shower and sink are on opposite sides, I’ve split tanks by side so the system stays clean. In one example, that looks like one tank for the shower side and one for the sink side. It keeps lines shorter and layout more intuitive. I’ve also used ball valves and quick attachments so draining and filling is practical. If someone is dispersed camping, they can drain easily. If they’re somewhere structured, they can hook up and fill cleanly. Fresh water sizing This is how I’ve commonly sized fresh water based on real use: If the van has a shower, I’ve typically run around a 30-gallon fresh tank. If it’s sink-only, I’ve used smaller tanks – around the low-20s gallon range. The point is not a perfect number. The point is matching capacity to how the van is actually used. Water Heaters There are a lot of options for water heaters and, again, it depends on how you will actually use your van. People tend to love having large water heaters. If you need that, Vanlife Outfitters sells some great options. Personally, I prefer smaller water heaters with a water-efficient shower head, but that’s my personal preference. I’ve seen tankless units used in camper vans, but I haven’t installed them myself. Exhaust heat and venting are real constraints in a small space, and I’m not interested in creating problems to solve problems. They can work, but I never thought they were worth it. Showers That Actually Work in a Van A shower can look good on paper and still feel terrible in real life. I’ve used showers that felt too tight, where you’re basically stepping in and out to wash different parts of your body. That’s one reason I’ve liked shower setups that create more usable space while you’re actually using them. One of the roomiest showers I’ve ever had was a fold-down shower with a curtain. The curtain matters. Curtains give you space to move and don’t box you in the way some doors do. Slider doors especially can make a shower feel smaller than it already is. The takeaway is simple. If you’re going to give up space for a shower, make sure it’s a shower you’ll actually use comfortably. Toilets in Tight Footprints Sometimes you have to compromise on “ideal” to make a camper workable for you. In smaller vans, bathroom privacy can be hard to achieve the way you might want. I’ve done layouts where the shower is built into a cabinet and the toilet slides out when needed because there wasn’t room for a bigger, more private setup in that footprint. I’m not saying everyone has to make that tradeoff. I’m saying it can be a realistic compromise when space is limited and the priority is still having an indoor shower and a workable bathroom routine. The point is to be honest about what your footprint can support and choose a bathroom approach you’ll actually use, not just one that looks good on paper. What Comes Next Once plumbing is planned around real usage and built with serviceability in mind, the next step is making sure the rest of your systems follow the same logic – clean layout, logical grouping, and access for future changes. That mindset carries into electrical and everything else you build into the garage space. Frequently Asked Questions About Van Plumbing 1. How do I start planning my camper van plumbing? Start by deciding if you’re building for a shower or just a sink. A shower changes everything – fresh water capacity, gray tank planning, hot water needs, and how much you care about fast drains. 2. What drain size should I use for a camper van sink and shower? I plumb drains like a house because I can’t stand slow drains or standing in water. I use 1½-inch plumbing so sinks and showers drain fast and feel normal, instead of RV plumbing kits that use smaller sizes. 3. Are RV drain kits okay for a camper van build? A lot of people use them, but they’re usually small and don’t drain very fast. If you’re running a real kitchen sink and faucet with decent pressure, those small drain setups can back up quickly. 4. How much fresh water do I need in a camper van? My rule of thumb: about 30 gallons if the van has a shower. If it’s sink-only, I’ve used smaller tanks that are more in the 22–24 gallon range. 5. How do I route camper van plumbing if my shower and sink are on opposite sides? If the sink and shower are on opposite sides, I’ve split the system by side to keep routing clean. I’ll usually put more capacity on the shower side and less on the sink side (for example, 20 gallons shower side and 16 gallons sink side). 6. What plumbing fittings make a camper van easier to service later? I’ve used PEX with quick disconnects instead of crimp-only setups. If you ever need to modify something or fix a leak, you can undo connections cleanly instead of cutting everything apart. 7. How big of a water heater do I need in a camper van? In my experience, people often don’t need as much as they think. I’ve used a 1.5-gallon water heater with a water-efficient shower head and taken 10-minute showers without running out of hot water, but 4- or 6-gallon heaters are more common and might be a safer bet for most. 8. Should I install a propane tankless water heater in a camper van? I have seen tankless units used as outdoor shower setups mounted at the rear door, but I haven’t installed tankless water heaters inside a van because of exhaust heat and venting concerns.I always felt like they added more complexity than is worthwhile. 9. How do I build a camper van shower that doesn’t feel cramped? A standard shower pan can feel tight. The roomiest shower I’ve used is a fold-down setup with a curtain, because the curtain gives you space to move and it doesn’t “close you off” the way some doors do. In a 144, I’ve also done a layout where the shower is built into a cabinet and the toilet slides out when needed because space is limited.
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Electrical Planning Without the Fear: How to Think About Power in Your Van Build
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton breaks electrical planning into a simple, calm sequence – start with what you actually use every day, tie power needs to how you travel, and design the system for access and future upgrades so electrical stops feeling like the part that stalls your build. This is the seventh article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Electrical is the part of a van build that scares people the most. I’ve seen it over and over. People can be confident designing layouts, choosing materials, even planning plumbing. But when it comes to electrical, everything slows down. They worry about doing it wrong, buying the wrong components, or locking themselves into a system they couldn’t change later. In reality, electrical doesn’t need to be intimidating. It just needs to be planned in the right order. Most of the problems I’ve seen aren’t caused by bad wiring or wrong components. They come from people trying to design electrical systems before they understand how the van will actually be used. Electrical Is a Result, Not a Starting Point One of the biggest mistakes I see is people jumping straight into electrical diagrams. I’ve seen people buy batteries and inverters early, only to realize later there wasn’t a good place to put them, or that the layout forced compromises they hadn’t planned for. Once components are purchased, people tend to design around them — even when they don’t fit the van well. They often ask: How many batteries do I need? How many solar panels? Should I use inverter X or charger Y? Those questions only make sense after you answer something much simpler:What am I actually trying to power? Electrical sizing is downstream from purpose. If you don’t know how often you’ll travel, where you’ll camp, or how you’ll live day to day, electrical decisions become guesses. That’s how people end up overbuilding systems they don’t use or underbuilding systems they constantly fight. Start With Real Usage, Not Edge Cases When customers described their electrical needs, they often listed everything they might want to do someday. Working full-time remotely. Running power tools. Using induction cooking. Running air conditioning off-grid. Charging multiple bikes and devices at once. Sometimes those needs were real. Often, they weren’t. What mattered more was what happened every day: Phones and laptops Lights Fans Refrigeration Basic accessories When people designed around their daily load instead of worst-case scenarios, systems often became simpler, cheaper, and more reliable. That’s why I rarely treated an electrical system as “finished.” People almost always want to add capacity later, especially batteries. Planning for that possibility early made those upgrades straightforward instead of painful. I’ve never had anyone come back and ask to downgrade their system. It’s always the other direction. People asked me constantly how hard it would be to add more batteries later – sometimes for themselves, sometimes for the next owner. That’s why the least expensive time to future-proof is the first time: run slightly oversized wiring and leave space so adding capacity later doesn’t mean tearing things apart. You can add capability later if you plan for it early. What I’ve seen go wrong is when people build tight and then try to upgrade later – adding batteries or bigger loads can turn into rework fast, if you don’t build in flexibility. So I design around real daily use, then I leave room and wiring for the upgrades people almost always want. Power Needs Are Tied to How You Travel One thing that consistently shaped electrical systems was how the van moved. People who drove frequently had very different needs than people who parked for days at a time. If you’re moving regularly, you can recharge while driving. That changes how much battery you need to carry. If you sit in one place for long stretches, you need to plan differently. Campgrounds versus boondocking mattered too. Shore power reduces stress on a system. Off-grid living increases it. This is why I always tied electrical planning back to the same questions: Where will you be staying? How often will you be moving? How long will you be parked? Electrical doesn’t exist in isolation. It reflects your travel style. Bigger Isn’t Always Better A lot of people assumed bigger systems were safer. More batteries. Bigger inverters. More panels. If the loads you are planning are both big and likely – like air conditioning off-grid, induction cooking, or long stays without shore power – then bigger capacity can be the right answer. But larger systems do come with tradeoffs: More weight More cost More complexity More points of failure Larger systems also take up more space and can make access harder if everything is packed tightly together. I’ve learned that leaving room around components mattered just as much as the components themselves. I saw plenty of vans with impressive electrical systems that owners barely used. And I saw simpler systems that worked flawlessly because they were matched to real needs. The goal isn’t to build the biggest system you can afford. It’s to build one you don’t think about every day. If you’re constantly checking battery percentages or worrying about usage, something is off – either the system is undersized for how you’re living, or it’s built in a way you don’t trust. Sequence Matters More Than Components A common problem I saw was people locking in electrical components too early. Once someone buys batteries, inverters, or chargers, everything else tends to get designed around them – even if they don’t actually fit the van well yet. That usually leads to compromises later, especially once layout and storage start to take shape. Because of that, I focused less on picking components and more on sequencing decisions correctly. Over time, that translated into a few consistent habits in how I planned electrical systems. I often ran extra wiring to likely future locations and left it coiled or capped, oversized wire runs so systems could grow later, and left physical space around electrical components instead of packing everything tightly together. I also tried to keep related components grouped so the system made sense when you looked at it, and avoided routing wires anywhere they’d be impossible to reach later. None of that was about building the “perfect” system on day one. It was about avoiding rework when needs inevitably changed. Electrical components take up space. They need ventilation. They need access. And they don’t exist in isolation – they interact with plumbing, storage, and the structure of the van itself. That’s why I always treated electrical planning as part of the layout, not a separate project. Once the bed height, garage space, and system zones were clear, electrical decisions became much easier to make – and much harder to regret. Design for Access and Change No matter how well you plan, things change. I’ve seen simple issues turn into major problems because a wire was buried inside a wall or pinched in a place that couldn’t be accessed later. When that happens, you’re forced to work around the problem instead of fixing it cleanly. People add gear. Travel styles shift. Power needs grow. That’s why I always thought about electrical systems in terms of access and adaptability. If you can’t reach connections or add capacity later without tearing the van apart, you’re going to regret it. Clean layouts. Logical grouping. Room to work. Those things matter more long-term than squeezing everything into the smallest possible footprint. Fear Comes From Overthinking Most electrical fear comes from trying to solve everything at once. When you break it down: Define how you’ll use the van Identify daily power needs Consider how you recharge Design the layout to support it Electrical becomes manageable. It’s not about memorizing specs or copying someone else’s build. It’s about matching the system to real life and leaving room for change. When people approached it that way, electrical stopped being the scary part of the build. It just became another system that supported how they actually lived. What Comes Next Once electrical planning is grounded in real use and integrated into the layout, the remaining systems start to fall into place. The next step is plumbing, heating, and climate – where simplicity and reliability matter just as much as they do with power. That’s what I’ll cover next. Frequently Asked Questions About Planning Electrical Systems for Camper Vans 1) Why does electrical planning feel so overwhelming in a camper van build? From what I’ve seen, electrical is where people start doubting themselves. It feels less forgiving than layout or cabinetry, and mistakes can be hard to spot once everything is built in. That combination makes people slow down, second-guess decisions, and sometimes overcomplicate things out of fear of getting it wrong. 2) When should I start planning the electrical system in my camper van build? I don’t treat electrical as a standalone phase. I plan it alongside the layout, once I know where major appliances and systems will live. Decisions like whether you’re running air conditioning or cooking electrically affect both layout and power needs, so they have to be considered early – but not before purpose and floor plan are clear. 3) What should I figure out before designing my camper van electrical system? Before thinking about components, I focus on how the van will actually be used. That includes daily habits, travel style, where major loads will be located, and whether you’re building for simplicity or heavier power use. Once those pieces are clear, electrical decisions become much easier to make. 4) Why is it a mistake to plan electrical before knowing how I’ll use my camper van? I’ve seen a lot of people plan electrical systems around everything they might want someday instead of what they’ll actually do most days. That usually leads to systems that feel mismatched – either underpowered for daily use or oversized and expensive for no real reason. Your power system should reflect real life, not imagined scenarios. 5) What’s the difference between daily power needs and worst-case electrical system planning? Daily power needs are what you rely on all the time – lights, devices, fans, refrigeration. Worst-case planning is designing around occasional or unlikely scenarios. When people build for worst cases first, systems get big and complicated fast. I’ve found it works better to design around everyday use and leave room to grow later if needed (because adding capacity is much easier if you plan for it up front). 6) How does the amount I drive affect my van’s electrical planning? How often you drive changes how you recharge. If you’re moving regularly, you can rely more on charging while driving through your primary or secondary alternator. If you tend to park for long stretches, you need to think differently. That’s why I always tie electrical planning back to travel habits, as well, not just appliances. 7) Why does camping style matter for power planning (campgrounds vs boondocking)? Whether you’ll have access to shore power makes a big difference in how much stress your electrical system needs to handle. Campground travel allows for simpler setups. Boondocking means you’re not connected to power, and it demands more independence. I always ask this question early because it shapes expectations more than some people realize. 8) What are the downsides of overbuilding a camper van electrical system? Bigger systems cost more, weigh more, and introduce more complexity. While I’ve sometimes overbuilt systems to avoid reliability issues, I’ve also seen people pay for capacity they rarely use. The goal isn’t maximum power – it’s a system that quietly supports how you live without constant monitoring or frustration. Keep in mind, though, that underbuilding can be just as frustrating as overbuilding – that’s why I tie sizing back to how you travel and what you actually power day to day. 9) Can a simpler electrical system still work well for full-time or long trips? Yes. I’ve worked with people who traveled full-time with very simple electrical needs, and others who needed much more power. What matters isn’t how long you travel – it’s how you live day to day. A simpler system can work extremely well if it’s matched to real usage, like frequent campground visits with shore power connections. 10) How do I know if I’m overthinking my van’s electrical setup? When planning starts to feel paralyzing, that’s usually a sign. Or if you are focusing on “what if” or worst-case scenarios. If you’re jumping between components without being able to clearly explain what you’re powering and how you’ll recharge, it’s time to step back. Electrical should feel logical once the basics are defined. 11) How does camper van layout affect electrical planning? Layout determines where electrical components can live, how wiring runs, and how systems interact with storage and plumbing. I don’t finalize electrical until the bed height, garage space, and cabinet zones are clear. Electrical fits into the rest of the van build – it doesn’t dictate it or float independently. 12) Why is access to electrical components so important in a van build? Even well-built systems need attention. I’ve seen simple issues turn into major headaches because components were buried behind walls or cabinets. If you can’t reach connections, fuses, or wiring, troubleshooting becomes frustrating fast. Good access makes the whole system easier to live with long-term. 13) What problems come from locking in electrical components too early? People almost always want to add something later – more battery, different charging, new gear. If the system wasn’t planned with potential future upgrades in mind, they can mean tearing things apart. Locking in components before understanding future needs usually creates unnecessary rework. 14) How can I plan my electrical system so it’s easier to change later? I plan for change from the beginning. That means leaving space, ensuring easy access, and allowing for expansion rather than boxing everything in tightly. When systems are laid out cleanly, intentionally, and openly, future changes feel manageable instead of overwhelming. 15) Should I size my battery system bigger than I need at the start? I don’t think the answer is automatically “go huge.” I think the right move is to be honest about your likely day-to-day use, then plan for growth from day one. I’ve never had someone ask to downgrade – it’s almost always “how hard is it to add more later?” That’s why I’d rather leave space, access, and wiring capacity now than build tight and hope upgrades are easy later.
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Designing the Garage: Storage, Systems, and Real-World Tradeoffs
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) When people picture van “layouts,” they usually focus on what they can see. Clayton explains why the garage under the bed is where builds either work smoothly or become a daily frustration – because it’s where storage, electrical, plumbing, access, and real-world gear all collide. This is the sixth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. When people think about van layouts, they usually focus on what they can see — the bed, the kitchen, the finishes. But from a builder’s perspective, the garage is where everything either works together or starts fighting itself. I’ve built a lot of vans where the garage space ended up determining how well the entire build functioned. If the garage is poorly planned, you feel it every day. If it’s done right, the van just works in the background. This isn’t about maximizing storage at all costs. It’s about designing the garage to support how the van will actually be used. The Garage Is More Than Storage In most of the vans I’ve built, the garage wasn’t just for gear. It typically housed: Electrical components on one side Plumbing and tanks on the other Loose gear, tools, or bikes in the remaining space That means the garage becomes the intersection point for multiple systems. If you treat it like an afterthought, you end up with wires crossing plumbing, components stacked on top of each other, and no room to service anything later. From the start, I looked at the garage as a systems zone, not just a place to throw stuff. Start With What Has to Live Inside Before designing shelves or boxes, I always worked backward from the non-negotiables. For many builds, that included: Bikes that needed to stay inside for security Large gear that couldn’t be exposed to weather Electrical cabinets that needed airflow and access Water tanks that couldn’t be placed elsewhere Mountain bikes were one of the biggest layout drivers. Once you commit to storing bikes inside, everything changes — bed height, aisle width, cabinet depth, even how you enter and exit the van. I’ve built vans where two bikes alone consumed nearly half the usable garage space. If that wasn’t planned early, the rest of the build suffered. Bed Height and Garage Height Are the Same Decision People often talk about bed height as a comfort choice. In reality, it’s a garage decision. The bed height sets: How much vertical space you have for gear Whether bike frames can stand upright Where tanks and batteries can be mounted Once the bed height is locked in, the garage is mostly defined. That’s why I always treated those two decisions as inseparable. If you raise the bed to fit gear, you need to accept what that does to headroom and upper cabinetry. There’s no free space in a van — every inch gets traded somewhere else. One garage detail people overlook early is the floor – because it quietly carries most of the load. Subfloor Strength and Mounting (The Garage Depends on It) The garage tends to carry the heaviest loads in the whole van. Water, batteries, tools, recovery gear, heaters, tanks, drawers, cabinets – all of it. Even if those items are mounted to the walls or to framing, the floor is still part of what keeps everything stable. That is why I treat the subfloor as a structural decision, not a finish detail. A higher-quality subfloor stays flatter, holds fasteners better, and gives you a more reliable base for mounting. If you are building a plywood subfloor, marine-grade birch plywood is usually worth it. It tends to be more consistent and void-free, and it holds up better in the moisture and temperature swings that vans live through. For thickness, ⅝” is a great balance of strength and weight for most builds. However, ¾” can be the right choice when you need extra stiffness or you are mounting heavier components through the floor. When it comes to securing the subfloor, I prefer to use factory mounting points when possible. If you do drill new holes, I treat every hole like a future rust spot – so seal them properly (some best practices). If your build is going to “pin down” the floor anyway through cabinetry and bolted components, a floating approach can also work and keeps you from peppering the van with unnecessary holes (and corrosion risk). Keep Systems Accessible (You’ll Thank Yourself Later) One thing I cared about a lot was serviceability. In the garage, I tried to: Keep electrical components grouped and visible Leave room to reach fuses and connections Avoid burying plumbing behind permanent structures Even well-built systems need attention eventually. If you have to remove half the van to access a pump or electrical connection, something went wrong in the design. That’s why I avoided stacking systems vertically whenever possible. Side-by-side layouts are easier to understand, easier to troubleshoot, and easier to change later. Don’t Overbuild the Garage It’s tempting to turn the garage into a maze of drawers, cubbies, and fixed boxes. I saw a lot of builds where that caused more problems than it solved. Heavy materials add up fast. Overbuilt furniture eats payload and limits flexibility. Once it’s in, it’s hard to undo. In many vans, the only permanent structures I installed in the garage were: The bed platform Electrical and plumbing mounts Everything else stayed modular or removable. That approach kept the van lighter, quieter, and easier to adapt. Modular Garages Age Better As Needs Change A lot of people don’t use their vans the same way forever. Some start with: Weekend camping Then add bikes Then transition to full-time travel Or turn the van into a work vehicle later For those builds, modular garages made the biggest difference. I used: L-track for mounting gear and furniture Bolt-in components instead of glue-in Simple framing that could be reconfigured In some builds, the entire garage could be cleared out or reworked in under an hour. That flexibility kept the van useful long after the initial build phase. How to secure cargo safely. Think About Noise, Dirt, and Daily Use The garage is where noise and mess usually originate. Loose gear rattles. Tools shift. Bikes rub. If those issues aren’t addressed early, the van becomes annoying to drive. I paid attention to: Securing items so they couldn’t move Separating dirty gear from living space Avoiding hard-on-hard contact points A quiet van feels better built, even if the layout is simple. Real-World Garage Design Is About Tradeoffs Every garage decision creates a tradeoff: More gear space means less living space Fixed storage means less flexibility Higher beds mean less headroom After building a lot of vans, I never found a perfect solution – only better tradeoffs for how the van was actually going to be used. That’s why I always came back to the same question: What needs to live in this space every day (not every once in a while)? If you can answer that honestly, the garage design becomes much clearer. Final Thought on Garage Design The garage is where most van builds either succeed quietly or fail slowly. If it’s planned early, kept simple, and designed around real use, you stop thinking about it — and that’s the goal. A good garage doesn’t draw attention to itself. It supports the rest of the van without getting in the way. Frequently Asked Questions About Garage Design in Camper Van Builds What is “garage space” in a camper van build? In van builds, the “garage” typically refers to the storage area underneath the bed platform at the rear of the van where gear, systems, and larger items are stored. This space often houses electrical cabinets, plumbing tanks, and large gear — and it’s key to a functional camper layout. How much space do I need to store bikes in the garage? Bike space depends on bike size and how you plan to store them. The safest way to figure this out is with your actual bikes and a tape measure. However, a decent rule of thumb is to plan for up to 5’ long and 3’ high for bikes standing up (without wheels). Are there common strategies for maximizing storage under the bed? Yes — builders often use: Pull-out trays Slide-out storage drawers L-track tie-downs These strategies help secure gear, keep items accessible, and use the available cubic volume effectively. However, as with all decisions in your van build, these come with tradeoffs: Two big ones are accessibility and weight. If this is your first van build, I recommend going simple, with a big open space in the garage for a few months before installing anything permanent. Make sure you really need it before you install anything that makes it difficult to get to the electrical and plumbing systems. How do I decide between fixed and modular storage in the garage? Fixed storage is sturdy and simple, but modular systems (like those that attach with L-track) allow you to reconfigure gear space later. Modular setups typically age better and adapt to changing needs, especially if your life on the road evolves. I highly recommend not installing anything permanent until you’ve used your van for several weeks or months. Should I worry about access to electrical and plumbing systems in the garage? Absolutely — leaving enough space to reach and service electrical components, fuses, and plumbing connections is critical. Accessible system placement reduces frustration and maintenance time, which aligns with best practices in van design. What role does garage height play in design? Garage height drives what can physically be stored underneath the bed. Taller gear like longboards or bikes with wheels off will need extra vertical clearance. Planning bed style and height and garage height together ensures gear can be stored without forced compromises. Is it better to design garage storage before building cabinets? Yes — dimensioning the garage for what must fit before adding cabinets or fixed furniture ensures that storage and system components don’t compete for the same space. This idea reinforces the principle of designing around purpose, not aesthetics. What are some common van garage storage mistakes? Common issues builders encounter include: Building permanent storage that blocks access to systems Not planning for gear size (especially bikes or tools) Ignoring service access Overbuilding heavy cabinetry that affects weight and balance These mistakes often make the garage (and the entire van) harder to use on a daily basis.
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Insulation & Ventilation: Start With the Floor and Plan for Real Comfort
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton explains why insulation and ventilation decisions should start with the floor – because thickness, noise, and comfort get locked in early – then walks through practical wall insulation and airflow planning so the van stays livable after everything gets closed up. This is the fifth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. After layout design, the next thing I like to lock in is the floor because it affects both comfort and how easy the rest of the build is. I’ve found it works better to treat insulation and airflow like part of the early structure of the build. The floor, walls, and ceiling are the shell you’ll live inside. If that shell is cold, loud, damp, or hard to work on later, it affects everything that comes after it. Once you’ve made the big space decisions (especially bed height and where your key zones will live), you can build a floor and a shell that supports comfort and future changes. Then you’re ready to move into the garage area and systems with fewer surprises. The Floor Is the Foundation (and It Affects Everything Above It) I think the van floor is one of the most underrated parts of a build. It impacts comfort, noise, insulation performance, and how easy it is to mount and secure things long term. It also ties directly to layout decisions from the last post. I’ve seen people lock in bed height, cabinet height, and storage plans – then add a thicker floor than expected and wonder why the van suddenly feels tighter than it did on paper. If you’re trying to build a van that feels good day to day, the floor is one of the first places I’d build “right” instead of “fast.” My Basic Floor Approach I’ve consistently come back to a simple, durable floor stack-up. A flat, strong subfloor that gives you a reliable surface for mounting and fastening An insulation layer that helps with temperature and road noise A plan that accounts for moisture, not just “R-value” I’m not trying to build a perfect house floor inside a van. I’m trying to build a floor that’s comfortable, quiet, and doesn’t create problems later. Build a Subfloor You Can Trust A plywood subfloor gives you a strong, flat platform and makes everything above it easier. The floor is the foundation of the build. It affects everything from comfort and insulation to cabinetry and how you mount things later. Why I Like Marine-Grade Plywood Marine-grade plywood is built with waterproof adhesive and fewer internal voids than typical construction plywood. Practically, that means better moisture resistance and less chance of warping or soft spots over time. It also tends to have a more consistent core, which matters when you’re fastening into it and mounting cabinets or gear. For thickness, I typically recommend ⅝” or ¾” – with ⅝” being a great balance of strength and weight in most builds. The goal isn’t to overbuild the floor – it’s to make it strong, stable, and predictable so everything you build on top of it goes smoother. Marine-grade costs more up front, but I’ve found the consistency and moisture resistance are worth it for a van floor. A Clean Process That Works Here’s the basic workflow I’ve used. Template firstVans aren’t square. I usually make a template and test-fit it before cutting the final plywood. Cut and test-fit in sectionsI’ve found it’s easier to install the floor in multiple pieces than trying to wrestle one huge panel into place. Seal the plywoodI like sealing the underside and edges to help with moisture resistance. The bottom side is the part that’s closest to a metal floor that can see condensation and temperature swings. Mount it securelyThe point of a subfloor is that it becomes a stable base for your build. I want it fastened well so it doesn’t squeak, shift, or loosen over time. This is one of those steps where doing clean work early pays dividends for the rest of the build. Insulate the Floor for Comfort and Noise (Not Just “Warmth”) Most people think about floor insulation as a cold-weather thing. I think about it as a comfort thing. A floor can be a major source of heat loss, but it’s also a major pathway for road noise and vibration. I’ve found that insulating the floor well tends to make vans feel more “finished” and less like a loud metal box. What I’ve Used for Van Floors For floor insulation, I’ve used 3M Thinsulate AU4002-5 (double scrim). It’s designed for automotive applications, and it’s worked well for the realities of a van floor. Here’s why I’ve liked it in this application. The double scrim layer makes it more durable under compression and friction It’s moisture-resistant and breathable, so trapped condensation has a chance to dry out rather than staying wet It improves thermal performance in both directions (cold weather and hot weather) It helps with acoustic dampening, reducing road noise and vibration It’s lightweight and straightforward to install It’s not the only option, but it’s been a solid option for how I build floors. A Note on Sound Deadening Some people go heavy on sound deadening. I’ve found that a little can go a long way, and you don’t need to cover every inch of the floor to get real benefits. If your goal is maximum quiet, then you should add a sound deadening layer as part of your floor plan. If your goal is a simpler build that is reasonably quiet, then a good insulation layer plus a solid subfloor will make the van both simpler and noticeably quieter. A Straightforward Installation Method (That Doesn’t Overcomplicate It) Floor insulation doesn’t need to be complicated. I’ve used a simple process. Prep and clean the metal floor so the insulation sits cleanly Cut the insulation to fit the floor contours Lay it in place in a way that avoids big gaps Install the plywood subfloor on top One detail that matters is remembering that some insulation can look thick before install, then compress once the subfloor goes down. That can be helpful when you’re doing your headroom math and trying to keep the floor from getting too tall. Walls and Ceiling: What I Use and Why When it comes to wall and ceiling insulation, I’ve tried a few approaches, and I’ve learned that the material choice affects more than temperature. It affects how clean the build stays, how easy it is to change later, and how hard it is to service wiring. Why I Lean Away from Spray Foam I haven’t liked working with spray-foamed vans. The biggest issue I ran into is that it’s much harder to run wires or make changes later – you end up having to dig it out to get anything done. I’ve also heard concerns about toxicity, and I didn’t find the real-world payoff worth the tradeoffs for the way I build. Thinsulate vs Wool (What I’ve Seen) For most of my builds, I’ve leaned toward Thinsulate. It’s clean, it looks good, and if you ever need to remove it – like adding a window later – it’s easier to pull out than something permanent. I’ve used Havelock wool in a couple of vans, but I’ve seen a problem when it gets wet – it can droop down to the bottom of the van and leave the top half without insulation. It also has a tendency to smell when it’s damp, which isn’t great in a small space. For me, Thinsulate has also been one of the easiest DIY options. You measure, cut it, spray adhesive, stick it, and you’re done. In most areas I’ll do at least one layer, and sometimes I’ll double it up depending on the build and the space I’m working with. How Insulation Connects to Wiring and Future Changes This is also where I think ahead to serviceability. I do insulation before wiring, and then I keep wires between the insulation and the wall panels so the interior stays flatter and the wires aren’t glued into the insulation. If wires run through insulation, you can end up with kinks, and it’s harder to fish a wire later if someone wants to add or change something. I’ve learned to build in a way that can come apart. I’ve worked on vans where everything was glued and nailed, and upgrades turned into break-and-rebuild jobs. I’d rather plan for change while the van is open than force someone into a teardown later. Airflow Planning Before You Close Up the Walls Airflow and ventilation are part of the same “shell” decision-making – once the insulation and panels go in, upgrades get harder. Start With a Roof Fan – Plan for the Possibility of A/C Later A roof fan (like a MaxxAir) can be a great starting point for a lot of builds. What I’ve seen happen, though, is people live in the van for a while and realize they want real A/C. That upgrade can get painful fast if the van wasn’t built to come apart cleanly. Don’t Build Yourself Into a Corner This is where insulation work and build methods intersect. If things are glued, nailed, and sealed in a way that makes panels and headliners hard to remove, even a straightforward change can turn into a teardown. I’ve seen people who wanted to go from a roof fan to A/C and ended up having to break apart finished areas because there wasn’t a clean way to access what they needed. What I Do to Future-Proof (Without Installing Everything Up Front) If I think there’s any chance A/C could be added later, I plan for it while the van is still open. One example is running heavy-gauge wire up into the headliner area and coiling it near the fan location, even if the build is only getting a MaxxAir fan at first. I also like running wires between the insulation and the wall panels so the interior stays flat and future wire runs are still possible. If you don’t end up adding A/C, no harm done. If you do, you’ll be glad you planned for it before everything was finished. What Comes Next After you’ve made your layout decisions and built a floor and shell that support comfort, the next step is thinking through the garage space under the bed. That’s where most systems end up living, and it’s where build decisions start to interact in a real way – electrical, plumbing, storage, and access all competing for the same space. That’s what I’ll cover next. Frequently Asked Questions About Insulation and Ventilation in Van Builds 1) What part of a camper van should I insulate first? I like starting with the floor. The floor affects comfort, noise, and how the whole build sits. It also ties directly into headroom and bed height decisions. 2) Why use a plywood subfloor in a camper van instead of building directly on the metal floor? A plywood subfloor gives you a flat, strong surface for mounting and fastening. It makes the rest of the build easier and helps avoid squeaks and shifting over time. 3) Should I template the camper van floor first? Vans aren’t square. I’ve found templating and test-fitting before cutting final plywood saves a lot of frustration and helps you get a tighter fit. 4) Why seal the plywood subfloor of my camper van? Moisture is real in vans. Temperature swings and condensation happen, and I’d rather protect the plywood from the start than hope it never gets damp. 5) What substrate should I use on my camper van floor? Marine-grade plywood is built with waterproof adhesive and fewer internal voids than typical plywood, which helps with moisture resistance and consistency. It costs more up front, but I’ve found it’s worth it for a van floor. 6) What thickness plywood should I use for a camper van subfloor? I typically recommend ⅝” or ¾”. In most builds, ⅝” is a great balance of strength and weight. 7) What insulation do you use for camper van floors? For floor insulation, I’ve used a 3M double scrim Thinsulate (AU4002-5). It’s designed for automotive use and has worked well for the realities of a van floor. 8) Do I need sound deadening if I’m insulating a camper van floor? Not always. Sound deadening can help, but I’ve found insulation plus a solid subfloor already makes a noticeable difference while keeping the build simpler.. 9) What insulation do you use on camper van walls and ceilings? In most builds, I’ve leaned toward Thinsulate because it’s clean, easy to work with, and easier to remove later if you need to change something (like adding a window). For DIY work, it’s one of the simplest options I’ve used – measure, cut, spray adhesive, stick it, and you’re done. 10) Why don’t you like spray foam for camper van walls? I’ve worked on vans that were spray foamed and found it made changes much harder because you have to dig it out to run wires. I’ve also heard concerns about toxicity, and I didn’t feel the tradeoff was worth it for the way I build. 11) Should I use wool insulation in my camper van? I’ve used Havelock wool in a couple of vans, but I’ve seen it droop when it gets wet, leaving the top half without insulation. I’ve also noticed it can smell when it’s damp, which matters in a small space. 12) How do you route wires relative to camper van insulation? I insulate first, then keep wires between the insulation and the wall panels. It helps keep the surface flatter and avoids wires getting glued into insulation, which can create kinks and make future wire-fishing harder if someone adds or changes something later. 13) How does ventilation relate to insulation in a camper van build? Insulation helps you hold temperature. Ventilation helps you manage moisture and comfort. I think of them as a pair – especially if you want a van that feels good in real life, not just parked in a driveway. 14) Should I plan for A/C even if I’m not installing it right away? A roof fan can be enough for a lot of builds, but some people live in their vans for a while and then decide they want A/C. If there’s any chance you’ll want it later, the easiest time to plan wiring paths, space, and access is before everything is finished and closed up.
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Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 3
Why Justin Shipp Left the RV Industry to Build Better Vans Before Site Seven was a van build shop, it was a set of convictions Justin Shipp had been forming for years. In this episode of Vanlife Roadmap, Justin shares how family roots in the RV business, a detour into custom bicycle building, and growing frustration with quantity-over-quality products eventually shaped the way he thinks about vans. What follows is not just the story of how Site Seven started. It is a look at the standards behind it – what Justin believes is worth building, what matters in real use, and why quality, simplicity, and thoughtful design still matter. From family RV roots to a different path Justin’s story starts long before camper vans. He describes growing up in a family RV dealership that began when his grandfather pivoted out of the dry cleaning business and discovered there was a far better margin in selling pop-up campers than pressing pants. Over time, that small operation became a large Tennessee dealership with a strong reputation and a family-owned culture built around treating people right and doing good work. Working across departments – from picking up trash and washing RVs to spending time in parts, finance, and the body shop – gave Justin a practical education in how businesses actually work. It also showed him how different parts of a company affect each other, and how decisions in one area can either support or damage another. He says that hands-on exposure left a bigger impression on him than school did. That experience still shows up in how Site Seven thinks about building today. Why the traditional RV model stopped making sense After the family business was sold to Camping World, Justin stayed through the transition and saw the shift from family ownership to a corporate model. Some changes, he says, were necessary. Others were harder to accept. What stood out most was the move toward profit over people – less focus on the customer, less focus on employees, and more pressure around the bottom line. That change did not resonate with him, and it became part of the reason he knew he would not stay there long term. At the same time, he was increasingly drawn to old Volkswagens. What appealed to him was not nostalgia for its own sake. It was simplicity. Those vehicles were thoughtfully made, mechanically understandable, and useful in a way many RVs did not feel. In the shop, he was seeing RVs that fell apart early. Outside of work, he was enjoying the freedom of a simple Volkswagen bus that could go places larger RVs never could. That contrast helped sharpen an important insight. Justin still believed in the idea behind RV travel. He just no longer believed the usual product was the best tool for it. Craftsmanship came before vans Before Site Seven, there were bicycles. After leaving the dealership, Justin began building custom steel-frame bicycles. Financially, he says, it was never really viable. But the work taught him something that stayed with him – if you want to avoid problems later, the best thing you can do is the best possible job now. That mindset shows up throughout the episode. He talks about buying the best tools he could afford, seeking out education in a niche craft, and wanting to be able to sleep at night knowing that something he made was safe and sound. In a one-person shop, there is no place to hide from subpar work. If something fails, the responsibility is obvious. That period may not have produced a lasting bicycle business, but it formed the standard he would later bring into van building. The first van was built in a driveway The transition into vans did not begin with a polished shop or a big launch plan. It began with a conversation. As the bicycle work was winding down, Justin reached out to someone in the restoration world, talked through what he was seeing in camper vans, and got encouragement to go for it. A few calls later, someone he had worked for in high school reached out and asked whether he could build a van. His answer was yes – even though he did not yet know exactly how. That first van was built in the customer’s driveway. He describes the process as a logistical nightmare – fabricating in one place, transporting parts elsewhere, working through design and materials on the fly – but it also became the proof of concept. The customer believed he could do it, then became a major advocate afterward, helping line up additional projects before the first van was even finished. Years later, that same first van is still around, having accumulated more than 60,000 miles, and was then back in the shop for electrical upgrades, additional furniture, and a water system. Building a shop by growing carefully The business did not jump from driveway builds to a polished facility overnight. Justin describes the next step as a small rented bay – just the amount of space he could afford. Then a second bay. Then the mezzanine. Eventually, after several years, Site Seven bought its current building in 2021 and built out a shop designed to support more work in-house. That in-house focus matters to the Site Seven story. Justin describes intentionally investing in equipment, experimenting, and putting together a team that could build as much as possible internally rather than depending on outside manufacturers. That includes furniture, fabrication, and even certain products and accessories they could theoretically buy off the shelf but prefer to develop themselves. The business has now completed more than 100 vans, reflecting a business that has grown steadily without losing its preference for careful, hands-on work. Quality versus quantity is still the dividing line One of the clearest themes in the episode is that the biggest difference between Site Seven’s work and the broader RV world is not aesthetics. It is mindset. Justin says RV manufacturing often emphasizes quantity over quality. The result may look impressive at first glance, but the materials and execution are not always built for long-term use. By contrast, Site Seven aims for a different standard – one grounded in better materials, more in-house control, and a deeper commitment to craft. He puts it in practical terms: There is a big difference between a vehicle built over months by a small team and one built in days by a much larger production line. His goal is that the difference is obvious as soon as someone opens the door. For anyone planning a build, that is an important distinction. The goal is not perfection in the abstract. The goal is dependable use. Quality, simplicity, and design When asked what defines a Site Seven van, Justin points to three ideas – quality, simplicity, and design. Quality is the most obvious. Use the nicest materials and components possible. Build as much in-house as possible. Expect everyone on the team to do their best work. Simplicity is just as important. In Justin’s view, systems do not need to be so complicated that they are hard to understand, hard to service, or more likely to fail. Simplicity reduces both user frustration and mechanical risk. That thinking clearly comes from his earlier time with old Volkswagens, where straightforward function and repairability were part of the appeal. Design, in this conversation, is not really about decoration. It is about making a van make sense. Justin talks about furniture that is durable but serviceable, electrical systems that are approachable for non-experts, and layouts that leave enough room for people to actually live in the van. In his words, many “off-the-shelf” vans have everything except room for you. Site Seven tries to include what is needed without filling the van so completely that there is no space left to move, stretch out, or simply be comfortable for a few days indoors. That is a useful reminder for DIY builders too. More features do not automatically make a van better. Sometimes they make it harder to use. Contact our support team if you have any questions about your own van build. Designing around actual use Another recurring theme is that Site Seven’s decisions are shaped by experience, not just ideas. Justin explains that their design approach is meant to create vans that feel good to live in, not just vans that look complete on paper. That includes leaving enough open space, keeping systems understandable, and thinking carefully about how each area of the van will function once someone is actually out on the road. There is also a strong theme of staying in the lane the shop knows well. Site Seven’s business has grown not by trying to be everything, but by refining a recognizable standard and getting better at executing it. That point of view fits the rest of Justin’s comments about quality, simplicity, and thoughtful design. That is a meaningful tradeoff. Saying no to work can be difficult. But in this case, it seems to have helped Site Seven deepen its identity rather than dilute it. Innovation inside a clear point of view Staying consistent has not meant standing still. Justin describes Site Seven as a shop with a clear aesthetic and a strong sense of what fits its work. Over time, that has meant learning to stay in its lane – not because every van should look the same, but because the team wants its builds to feel coherent, intentional, and recognizably Site Seven. Within that point of view, there is still plenty of room to experiment. Justin talks about custom upper cabinetry, a distinctive kitchenette layout, a bi-fold seating solution in a shorter 144 van, and in-house development of items like water tanks, shower pan ideas, roof racks, and running boards. What makes those examples interesting is that they are not framed as novelty for novelty’s sake. They come out of real design problems – how to use space better, how to improve function, and how to make the van feel both practical and thoughtfully built. That balance seems central to Justin’s approach. Site Seven is not trying to reinvent itself with every build. It is trying to keep refining a recognizable standard while continuing to make that standard better. What this says about the van market now Toward the end of the episode, the conversation zooms out to the broader van industry. Justin describes today’s market as more established and more informed than it was a few years ago. After the surge of interest that followed Covid, camper vans are no longer a novelty in the same way. Customers are arriving with more research, more exposure to layouts and systems, and a better sense of what they value. He also points to the role that educational content now plays in that process. Buyers are reading blogs, studying layouts, learning electrical basics, and showing up with more context than before. That changes the conversation between builders and customers. Justin does not offer a grand forecast with a neat conclusion. Instead, his perspective is more grounded than that. The market is changing, the customer is more informed, and serious shops may have an advantage in a more established category. But the deeper emphasis remains the same – do the work well, build with intention, and let the quality speak for itself. The deeper takeaway This episode is about more than one builder or one shop. Justin’s perspective keeps returning to a few practical ideas – build for real use, keep things as simple as possible, choose quality over quantity, and leave enough room for people to actually live in the van. Those priorities shape how Site Seven thinks about layouts, materials, serviceability, and the overall experience of using the van day after day. That is what makes this conversation useful even if you are not planning to hire a custom shop. It gives DIY builders and future van owners a clearer way to judge their own decisions. Not just what looks good on paper, but what will feel durable, usable, and worth living with once the trip actually begins. If you want the full story, including Justin’s family-business roots, the bicycle detour, the driveway-built first van, and the philosophy behind Site Seven’s work today, this episode is worth the listen.
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Layout Design: Start With the Bed and Build Everything Else Around It
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Most layout mistakes happen because people start with the kitchen, the cabinets, or the “cool idea” – not the thing they’ll use every night. Clayton starts with the bed, then locks in bed height and the shower/bathroom space claim so the rest of the layout falls into place without painful compromises later. This is the fourth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. When I design a van layout, I always start with the bed. Not the kitchen.Not the electrical cabinet.Not the shower. The bed. I’ve built more than 50 vans, and every time I’ve tried to design around something else first, it caused problems later. The bed is the one thing you will use every single day. It dictates how much storage you have, how you move through the van, and how comfortable the build is long-term. If the bed works, the rest of the layout usually falls into place. Why the Bed Comes First The bed anchors the entire van. Once it’s set, you’ve defined: How much garage space you have Where your plumbing and electrical can live How much open floor area remains Whether the van feels cramped or livable Many layout mistakes I see come from trying to squeeze the bed in after everything else has already been planned. I’ve had customers come to me with detailed drawings of kitchens and seating areas, only to realize later that the sleeping setup either didn’t fit or wasn’t practical for how they actually used the van. That’s why I always start with one question: How do you want to sleep – every night, not just on paper? Platform Beds vs. Convertible Beds (My Strong Opinion) Early on, I built vans with dinette-style beds, pull-out frames, fold-down legs, and multi-cushion setups. They look great in photos. They check a lot of boxes on Instagram. In real life, they get old fast. Setting up a bed every night means: Rearranging cushions Clearing surfaces Rebuilding the same thing over and over After doing that myself and watching customers do the same, I stopped recommending it. Almost every van I’ve built after that used a fixed platform bed. Why? It’s always ready It’s structurally simple It creates consistent storage underneath It removes friction from daily life A lot of people think they need a convertible bed because they imagine they need tons of room for entertaining inside the van – sitting around, sipping wine, hanging out. In reality, most people are: Boondocking Camping remotely Staying in campgrounds And therefore spend as much time outside as they can Most people don’t need a living room inside a van. You need a place to sleep well and live efficiently. Use the outdoors for your living room and hosting space – use the inside of your van for sleeping, storing, and traveling. Bed Height Drives Everything Below It Once you commit to your type of bed, the next critical decision is height. Bed height determines: What you can store underneath Whether bikes fit inside Where tanks, batteries, and systems go And also, whether you’re going to hit your head every morning when you sit up For example: If you’re storing mountain bikes inside, you’re usually looking at around 36 inches of clearance That may mean raising the bed higher than originally planned Which then affects headroom and cabinet placement I’ve built vans where: Two bikes consumed nearly half the van The bed had to be higher to accommodate fork mounts The entire layout shifted because of that single decision This is why purpose matters. Storage needs aren’t abstract – they physically shape the van. Check out our favorite bed/garage system. Do the Headroom Math Early (The Floor Counts Too) When you are setting bed height, I recommend doing the headroom math early. People focus on the bed platform and forget the floor stack-up. A small change in floor thickness can affect how the van feels every day, especially if you are tall or you want to sit up comfortably in bed. A simple example is subfloor thickness. Using ⅝” plywood gives you plenty of strength with less height and weight than ¾”. If you add insulation under the floor, remember that some products may seem thicker before installation, but they compress once the subfloor goes down. The main point is to treat floor thickness as part of the layout, not an afterthought (because it affects everything above it). This is one of the easiest ways to avoid a layout that feels cramped later. Showers and Toilets Come Right After the Bed Once the bed decision is made, I go straight to the shower and bathroom. In my experience, the bed comes first and the shower is second – those two decisions shape the whole layout more than everything else. For me, a shower has ended up being a must-have. I like to shower, and I like the privacy of using the bathroom in the bathroom. I’ve tried a “no shower” setup, assuming I’d use gyms or campground showers, but I never did – and I never found campground showers I actually wanted to use. I’ve also tried an outdoor shower, and where I camped it was usually either a privacy issue or it turned into more of a mess than it was worth. I realize this is personal, but after trying life without one, I’ve learned I’m happiest with an indoor shower and some real bathroom privacy. Once I know where the bed is going, I build forward or build back depending on that bed location. Shower comes next – I’ll build the shower pan and place it where it fits in the layout as I’m building. If you want an indoor shower but you’re tight on space, I’ve found there are ways to make it workable without giving up the whole van. The roomiest shower I’ve ever had was a fold-down shower with a curtain, and it didn’t take up hardly any space. In smaller vans, I’d build the shower into a cabinet and then have to use a toilet that slid out from underneath the sink because there just wasn’t room for a more private setup in that footprint. After I’ve locked in the bed and the shower and bathroom, I shift to the garage area under the bed and start thinking through systems and storage. Think Garage Next, Not Cabinets Most people underestimate how much space they need in the “garage” (the space under the bed, in the back of the van). Under the bed is where I and others typically house: Electrical systems (on one side) Plumbing and tanks (on the other side) Gear, tools, or bikes In many builds, the only permanent cabinetry I installed lived over the wheel wells. Everything else was modular or removable. That approach keeps the van flexible and makes future changes easier. If you fill the van with fixed cabinets too early, you lose the ability to adapt. Design for Living Outside the Van Once the bed and garage are figured out, the next thing I always try to reset for people is this idea that everything needs to happen inside the van. Most daily life happens in your home – but most vanlife happens outside. People picture sitting inside their vans with friends, drinking wine, playing cards, and hanging out for hours. In reality, when you’re at a campsite or boondocking, there often aren’t other people around – and even when there are, you’re usually hanging out outside. By the fire. By the river. Under an awning. This realization changes layouts fast. When customers rented a van or walked through builds at a van show, they started to see it. Chairs, tables, grills, and even cooking setups didn’t need to live inside permanently. Once you assume outdoor living is the default, you stop trying to cram everything into the van. Designing with the outside in mind: Frees up interior space Reduces clutter Makes the van feel calmer and more functional Remember to leave no trace The van doesn’t need to do everything. It just needs to support how you actually live. I like to think of my vans as comfy tents more than complete houses. Be Realistic About Seating and Hosting Seating is one of the most overthought parts of most van builds. A lot of people want seating for six inside a 144 van. Even if you manage to fit it, it’s cramped, loud, and not very comfortable. Multiple conversations at once don’t work well in a small metal box. What usually makes more sense is keeping interior seating simple and flexible. Swivel seats are a great example. Swiveling the factory driver and passenger seats instantly creates usable seating without building bulky benches or sacrificing floor space. For most people, that’s plenty. There’s also an important difference between seating for driving and seating for hanging out. If people are riding in the van, those seats need to be properly mounted to the van’s frame – not just attached to L-track. That alone limits how creative interior seating can be. In practice: Interior seating gets used less than people expect Hosting mostly happens outside Having fewer seats usually means a better layout Design for how many people will actually be inside at the same time, most of the time – not how many you imagine hosting. Simplify Cooking and Make Cleaning Easy Kitchens are another area where people tend to overbuild. I’ve seen a lot of vans with four-burner stoves, microwaves, induction cooktops, and appliances people didn’t even use at home. And many of them barely cooked in their vans. What matters far more than appliances is cleanup and usability. That’s why I almost always used a full-size sink in my builds (often farmhouse-style, but those are a bit trickier to install). Tiny sinks might look good in pictures, but they make daily life harder in my opinion. A big sink makes everything easier – washing dishes, cleaning up, filling bottles, rinsing gear, and even just washing your hands. Plus, great big sinks are amazing for storing bags of groceries you just picked up at the store. And I’ve seen many sinks that have a built-in cover that adds to a van’s counter space. Portable setups usually worked better for cooking. I’ve never put them in my vans, but butane or propane cooktops can be stored in a drawer and used on the counter or outside, giving you flexibility without permanently eating up counter space. You don’t need a dedicated cutout for every appliance. I don’t think that most people should want a house kitchen in a van. They should focus on: Counter space Easy cleanup Fewer things to work around If storage and cleaning are easy, everything else feels easier too. Modular Layouts Solve Real-World Problems A lot of my customers didn’t want a van that only did one thing. Some needed to: Camp on weekends Haul dirt bikes Move cargo like tools and wood Use the van as a daily driver or work vehicle For those builds, I used: L-track-mounted furniture Aluminum framing Plug-in electrical connections Beds could be broken down. Galleys could be removed. In some cases, the entire van could be reconfigured in about 30 minutes. That flexibility always started with the bed design. If the bed was simple and well-placed, everything else could move around it. Tape It Out and Act It Out One thing I always encouraged customers to do was physically simulate the layout. Before building anything: Tape the bed footprint on the van floor Pretend to climb in and out Sit where you think seating will be Imagine cooking, changing clothes, grabbing gear I also strongly recommended: Renting a van Visiting van shows Laying in beds Acting like it’s your van About a third of people who did this completely changed their layout – many often switching from a convertible bed to a platform bed. You learn more in one night sleeping in a van than weeks of planning on a screen. Don’t Design for the Internet This is where a lot of layouts go wrong. People design for: Photos Videos Social media What looks good Instead of: How they actually live I’ve seen vans packed with seating that never gets used, oversized kitchens for people who don’t cook, and elaborate bed systems that become daily annoyances. A good layout isn’t impressive – it’s invisible. It works without you thinking about it. Final Thought on Layout If I had to boil all of this down to one rule, it would be this: If the bed works, the van works. Start there.Build around it.Keep it simple. Everything else – electrical, plumbing, storage, finishes – becomes easier once the sleeping setup is right. Frequently Asked Questions About Camper Van Layout Design What is the best camper van layout for a DIY build? There isn’t a single “best” layout for everyone. The best layout is the one that matches how you actually plan to use the van. In my experience, the most reliable layouts start with a fixed platform bed and build everything else around that. Once the bed works, storage, systems, and daily movement through the van tend to fall into place. Should I choose a platform bed or a convertible bed in my camper van? After building and living with both, I strongly prefer a fixed platform bed. Convertible beds look flexible on paper, but setting them up every night gets old quickly. A platform bed is always ready, simpler to build, and creates consistent storage underneath. In my experience, most builders who try both end up switching to a platform bed. How high should a camper van bed be? Bed height depends on what you need to store underneath it. If you’re carrying large items like mountain bikes, you may need roughly 36 inches of clearance. If you’re mostly storing systems and gear, you may be able to go lower. The key is deciding what must live under the bed before locking in the height. How does the bed affect the rest of the camper van layout? The bed determines: How much garage space you have Where electrical and plumbing systems can be installed How much open floor space remains Whether the van feels livable or cramped That’s why I always design the bed first. Everything else depends on it. Is a fixed bed bad for entertaining or seating in a camper van? Most people overestimate how much they’ll entertain inside a van. In reality, you spend most of your time outside – especially when camping at a site or boondocking. Designing a van around interior seating often sacrifices comfort and storage for something that rarely gets used. Can I still have a modular layout with a platform bed in my camper van? Yes. Many of the vans I built used fixed beds with modular components underneath or in front of them. Using L-track, removable furniture, and plug-in systems allows you to keep flexibility without rebuilding your bed every night. Should I design my camper van layout before seeing one in person? No. I always recommend renting a van or, at least, visiting a van show before finalizing a layout. Lay in the bed. Pretend to cook. Move through the space. A lot of people change their layout after just one night in a van – especially their bed choice. What’s the biggest mistake people make with camper van layouts? Designing for photos instead of daily life. A good layout doesn’t look impressive – it works quietly in the background. If you don’t think about it while using the van, that usually means it’s done right. Can I change my camper van layout later if I get it wrong? You can, but it’s much easier if you design with flexibility from the start. Simple bed designs, modular components, and leaving room for future changes all make adjustments less painful down the road. What should I design first when planning a camper van layout? Start with how you sleep. Once the bed is right, everything else – storage, systems, and flow – becomes easier to design. Should I design my camper van mainly for indoor living? In practice, most vanlife happens outside the van. People often expect to spend a lot of time inside, but once they’re actually traveling, they find themselves cooking, relaxing, and spending time outdoors. Designing the interior with that reality in mind helps avoid overcrowding the space and leads to simpler, more functional layouts. What should I plan to use outside instead of inside the camper van? Things like chairs, tables, and even cooking setups often work better outside. Planning for outdoor living frees up interior space and keeps the van focused on sleeping, storage, and daily essentials. How much seating do I actually need inside my camper van? Most builders need far less seating than they initially think. For many vans, swivel seats on the driver and passenger side provide enough interior seating without sacrificing space or adding complexity. Limiting seating to only what you will actually need helps save space for storage, large counters, more elbow room, etc. Are swivel seats worth it in a camper van build? Yes. Swivel seats are a good example of seating that makes sense in many builds. Swiveling the factory driver and passenger seats creates usable interior seating without building bulky benches or giving up floor space. For a lot of people, that ends up being enough. Do I need a built-in stove or cooktop in my camper van? Not necessarily. Many people find portable propane or butane cooktops more flexible. They can be stored away when not in use and often work just as well inside or outside the van. What matters more in a camper van kitchen: appliances or cleanup space? From a real-use standpoint, cleanup tends to matter more than having multiple built-in appliances. Many builders focus on stoves or cooktops, but day-to-day comfort often comes down to having enough counter space and an easy way to wash dishes, clean up spills, and rinse gear. Prioritizing cleanup makes the kitchen feel more usable, even if the cooking setup stays simple.
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Choosing the Right Base Van: Start With How You’ll Actually Use It
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Choosing the right base van isn’t about what’s “best” – it’s about the constraints you can’t change later. Clayton breaks down the tradeoffs that matter most, so you pick a platform that fits how you’ll actually travel and live. This is the third article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. One of the first decisions people want to make when planning a van build is choosing the base vehicle. They usually ask it like this:“Which van is best?” After building a whole lot of vans and talking with hundreds of builders, I don’t think that’s the right way to approach it. There is no single best van. There are only tradeoffs — and those tradeoffs matter differently depending on how you plan to use the van. If you choose a base van before you’re clear on purpose, you’ll end up designing around limitations instead of intentions. Purpose Comes First (Again) Before comparing any specific models, you need to revisit the same questions I mentioned in my last post, which should guide the rest of your build: Are you living in the van full-time or using it on weekends? Are you staying in campgrounds or traveling off-grid? What climates are you traveling through? How many people are riding and sleeping? How much gear needs to live inside the van? Your base van choice affects interior space, ride quality, maintenance realities, and how forgiving the build process will be. None of those factors matter on their own — they matter in relation to how you’ll actually use the van. Many People Choose a Van Too Early One common mistake I see is people locking in a van before they understand what they’re building toward. They fall in love with a brand, a look, or a build they saw online. Then they try to force a layout or system into a platform that doesn’t support it easily. When that happens, everything becomes harder: Layouts feel cramped Weight becomes an issue Systems get complicated Maintenance becomes stressful Choosing a base van should be a result of planning, not the starting point. Dimensions Matter More Than the Logo When people focus only on a brand, they often overlook the things that actually affect daily life inside the van. Two dimensions matter more than almost anything else: Roof height Body length If you’re spending time inside the van — especially living full-time — standing height matters. Bending over every day adds friction you don’t notice at first but feel later. Body length affects: How the interior can be laid out How much separation you can have between living zones How easy the van is to park and maneuver Longer vans give you more flexibility inside. Shorter vans are easier to drive and park. Neither is better — they just serve different priorities. Weight Is a Constraint You Can’t Ignore Every van has limits. Batteries, water, cabinetry, appliances, and gear all add up faster than people expect. If weight isn’t considered early, the result can often be: Poor handling Sagging suspension Increased wear on components A van that feels unstable on the road This is one reason I’m cautious about overbuilt furniture and unnecessary materials. Strength matters, but so does restraint. Your base van sets the ceiling. Everything you add has to live within it. Serviceability Is Part of the Build Another factor people underestimate is where and how the van will be serviced. Some vans are easier to get worked on in small towns. Others rely more on dealerships and specialized diagnostics. That difference matters more once you’re traveling regularly. If the van is your home, downtime isn’t just inconvenient — it can end a trip. This doesn’t mean one approach is right or wrong. It means service access should be part of the decision, not an afterthought. New vs Used: Condition Over Numbers Mileage gets a lot of attention when people shop for vans, but it’s not the whole story. What matters just as much: Maintenance history Signs of hard commercial use Rust or corrosion Poorly done previous modifications I’ve seen low-mileage vans with serious issues and higher-mileage vans that were clearly cared for. Condition tells you more than the odometer. If you’re buying used, plan time to inspect and address issues before starting a build. Rushing this step usually creates problems later. Common Base-Van Mistakes A few patterns show up repeatedly: Choosing a van based on aesthetics instead of use Ignoring interior dimensions until layout design starts Underestimating weight early in the build Not thinking through service realities Locking in a platform before defining purpose None of these mistakes are fatal, but they all make the build harder than it needs to be. How to Make the Decision Without Overthinking It You don’t need to optimize this decision perfectly. You need to make it intentionally. If you can answer these questions, you’re in a good place: Does this van support my intended layout? Can it handle the weight of my planned systems? Am I comfortable with how it will be serviced? Does it fit where and how I plan to travel? If the answer is yes, it’s probably a workable platform. What Comes Next Once the base van is chosen, the build becomes real. The next step is designing the layout — and for me, that always starts with the bed. That decision anchors everything else. Vanlife Outfitters Note: How the Base Van Platform Affects Your Build Clayton’s guidance focuses on purpose first. Once that purpose is clear, the base van becomes a structural constraint that shapes layout options, system capacity, and long-term usability. This section provides high-level context on the three most common platforms used by DIY van builders. It is not a recommendation or ranking — it is meant to help you understand how platform differences influence build decisions. Mercedes-Benz Sprinter The Sprinter is often chosen when a build priority is either a desire for four-wheel drive or maximum interior runway, with high-roof options and longer body lengths that support more expansive layouts and more configuration flexibility. Sprinter is also a common pick because it’s a Mercedes – some builders want more premium feel, comfort, and tech, and they are willing to pay more for it. As you may expect, Sprinter vans are significantly more expensive than Ford or Dodge vans. On the other hand, Sprinters usually have diesel engines, which come with both pros and cons – and they can be harder to service on the road in the U.S. because the authorized network is much smaller. Ford and Dodge have thousands of dealerships across the U.S., while Mercedes-Benz Vans only has hundreds. A practical way to frame the Sprinter choice is: I want maximum standing room and a longer layout runway, I like the premium Mercedes experience, and I’m comfortable planning around a platform that can be more demanding to own long term. Here is a link to Sprinter details, and here is a link to find MB Van dealers. Key implications Strong high-roof and longer-length options for larger layout Often perceived as more premium inside (comfort/tech/overall feel), but typically costs more than rivals Diesel is common in Sprinter configurations (plan for diesel-focused maintenance and operating considerations) Fewer branded service points vs Ford/Ram can make “service on the road” require more planning Ford Transit The Transit is often chosen by builders who want available AWD, a large OEM and aftermarket support ecosystem, and broad parts and service access for long-term travel. From a build standpoint, the Transit is not the “square” option. Its interior surfaces curve in multiple areas, which can make wall finishing and cabinetry fit-up more work than boxier platforms like the ProMaster. A practical way to frame the Transit choice is: I want AWD capability and widespread service support, without stepping into the complexity and ownership profile that some builders associate with Sprinters (not a universal rule, but a common decision pattern.) Here is a link to Transit details, and here is a link to find Ford Pro dealers. Key implications Available Intelligent AWD for traction-focused builds Strong parts/service network for regular or remote travel More interior curvature means more templating and fit work than “square” vans Ram ProMaster The ProMaster is often chosen when the build priority is usable interior space and “boxy” interior. Compared with the Sprinter and Transit, it has squarer interior walls and more usable width, which can make layout planning and cabinetry more straightforward for many DIY builders. In addition, it is the only one of the big three van models that is wide enough for a full-length bed running “east-west” without adding flares. It’s also a front-wheel-drive platform, and that drivetrain layout is commonly linked to the ProMaster’s lower load floor (easier step-in and loading) compared with the other two. And it is usually the cheapest of the three vans. A practical way to frame the ProMaster choice is: I want the most build-friendly interior geometry (wide, square walls, low step-in), and I’m comfortable giving up AWD capability in exchange for a lower price and the packaging benefits of a FWD platform. Here is a link to ProMaster details, and here is a link to find Ram dealers. Key implications Generally viewed as the widest and most “square” interior of the big three (often simpler for cabinetry and certain layouts). Front-wheel drive supports a lower load floor (daily entry and loading convenience). Large dealer footprint in the U.S. (roughly ~2.4K Ram locations, depending on dataset and timing), which can make service access easier than smaller networks. Platform Choice in Context No platform is universally “better.” Each introduces constraints that shape design decisions, system sizing, and long-term adaptability. The right choice depends on how the van is intended to be used – now and in the future. Understanding these differences early helps ensure that later build decisions align with the purpose defined at the start. Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing a Base Van How do interior dimensions compare between Sprinter, Transit, and ProMaster vans? Interior dimensions vary widely by configuration and roof height, but here are typical 2025 figures: Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (High Roof): Interior standing height ~79.1 inches; max floor width ~70 inches; cargo volume up to ~533 cubic feet on extended wheelbases. Ford Transit (High Roof): Interior standing height ~81.5 inches on some high-roof/long configurations; interior width around ~77.0 inches. Ram ProMaster (High Roof): Interior cargo width up to ~75.6 inches and max interior width up to ~75.6 inches. These dimensions affect how you can lay out beds, appliances, and storage inside the van. Which van offers the most interior width for camper conversions? In general: Ford Transit interior width can reach about 77.0 inches, providing slightly more width than other platforms. Ram ProMaster offers up to about 75.6 inches of interior width. Mercedes Sprinter interior width tends to be narrower, typically around 70–70.4 inches at floor level. Wider interiors can make layout planning — especially bed orientation and side-to-side storage — more flexible. Do roof heights differ significantly between cargo vans? Yes, and roof height significantly influences stand-up space: Ford Transit high-roof models can provide an interior height of about 81.5 inches, which is among the tallest in the class. And we know some shorter vanlifers who can even stand up tall in the Transit’s mid-roof models. Mercedes-Benz Sprinter high-roof interior height is typically around 79.1 inches. Ram ProMaster also has high-roof options, with cargo height often around 76 inches, though exact figures vary by model. They even have a new Super High Roof option you may want to consider. Remember to take your floor plans into account as you plan for the interior height of your build. How do payload capacities compare among Sprinter, Transit, and ProMaster? Payload capacity (the amount of weight a van can carry safely) varies by trim and configuration, but manufacturers report maximum figures such as: Ram ProMaster: up to over 4,800 pounds maximum payload on some models. Ford Transit: payloads can range widely; some Transits are rated around 3,500 pounds or more depending on options. Mercedes Sprinter: specific payloads vary across trims, with heavier-duty versions designed to carry larger loads (often higher than light-duty competitors). Higher payload can give more margin for batteries, water, gear, and furniture without overloading. Does wheelbase length make a noticeable difference in build space? Yes. Longer wheelbase vans offer more interior length for beds, cabinets, and systems: Mercedes Sprinters most often have wheelbases of 144” and 170”. Ford Transits are typically 130” and 148”. Ram ProMasters are usually 136” and 159”. Although greater interior length improves layout flexibility, it does so with trade-offs like ease of parking and maneuverability. Are there any other dimensional differences that affect camper van builds? Beyond width and height, differences include: Cargo length: Longer vans like extended Transits and Sprinters provide more bed and storage space. Load floor height: Vans like the ProMaster often have lower load floors which can make entering/exiting and loading gear easier. Turning radius and overall exterior dimensions: These affect daily drivability, though they are less directly tied to interior layout.
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Start With Purpose: Build the Van You’ll Actually Use
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) If you want to build a camper van you’ll actually love using, start here. Clayton shows how a few purpose questions – weekend vs full-time, campgrounds vs boondocking, climate, people, and gear – shape every decision that follows (and prevent expensive regret later). This is the second article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Before you buy tools, before you design cabinets, before you cut a single hole in the van, you need to answer one important question: Why are you building this van? I’ve worked on more than a hundred vans professionally, including over 50 complete builds. And if there’s one pattern I’ve seen over and over, it’s that when builders skip this step, they end up rebuilding things later – layouts, systems, even entire interiors. When builders get this step right, everything downstream gets easier. Most People Think They Know What They Want (Until They Actually Use a Van) A lot of people come into a build having done months of research. They’ve watched videos, saved layouts, and followed builds online. On paper, they’re confident. But many of them haven’t actually spent time living in a van. When I was building vans for customers, I’d always encourage them to rent one for a weekend or spend real time at a van show. And about a third of the time, people would come back and say, “I want to change everything.” That’s not because they did anything wrong. It’s because real use exposes assumptions. People imagine hosting dinner parties inside a van. Then they spend a weekend in one and realize most of their time is spent outside. Or they imagine convertible beds and elaborate seating. Then they realize setting up and breaking down a bed every day gets old fast. You can research forever. But nothing replaces using a van. You’ll learn more in two days on the road than weeks of planning. Purpose Isn’t Abstract – It’s Practical When I talk about “purpose,” I’m not talking about something philosophical. I’m talking about how the van will actually be used. These are the questions I always come back to: Will this be used full-time or mostly on weekends? Are you staying in campgrounds or boondocking? What climates are you traveling in? How many people are riding and sleeping? What gear needs to live or travel inside the van? Your answers drive everything else – layout, power, water, heating, storage, even the base van itself. If you don’t answer them honestly, you’ll design for a lifestyle you don’t actually live. The Big Purpose Categories (And What They Change) Most builds fall into one of a few broad categories. There’s some overlap, but the differences matter. Full-Time Living If you’ll be living in the van full-time, comfort and capacity matter more than anything. These builds often benefit from: A fixed platform bed A real kitchen setup Enough power to run daily life without stress A heater, regardless of climate More storage than you think you need Full-time builds tend to push battery capacity higher. People often underestimate how much power they’ll actually use once they’re living in the space every day. Weekend Campground Use If you’re mostly traveling on weekends and staying at campgrounds, the requirements are different. You can rely more on shore power. You don’t need massive water storage. You might not need a full bathroom. This is where people often overbuild. If you’re plugging in most nights, you don’t need to carry the same systems as someone living off-grid for weeks – or even days – at a time. Adventure and Gear-Focused Builds If your vanlife will be about bikes, skis, boards, or work gear, that needs to be part of the purpose from the beginning. That usually means: Designing adventure storage first, not last Thinking about modular furniture Making sure gear can live inside securely Accepting tradeoffs in living space I’ve built plenty of vans where the layout could change depending on whether bikes were loaded or not. That flexibility only works if you plan for it early. Cold Weather and Four-Season Travel If you’re traveling in cold climates, purpose matters even more. Cold weather affects: Plumbing placement Heating requirements Insulation decisions Battery capacity People often think they’ll “just avoid cold weather.” In reality, nights get cold even in places like Arizona. A heater ends up being one of the most universally useful systems you can install. Real Life Changes the Plan (And That’s Normal) Something I tell people often is that your purpose will probably evolve. Someone who starts as a weekend traveler might decide to go full-time later. Someone who stays in campgrounds might start boondocking more. Someone who never thought they’d travel in winter ends up chasing snow. Because of that, I like to think in terms of a 70/30 approach. Build about 70 percent for how you know you’ll use the van, and leave 30 percent of flexibility for the future. That doesn’t mean overbuilding everything. It means future-proofing where it matters – wiring paths, access panels, structural mounting points – so changes later don’t require tearing the van apart. Common Purpose Mistakes I See After seeing hundreds of builds, a few mistakes come up repeatedly. Designing for Social Media Instead of Daily Life Clean layouts look great in photos. But real life involves cooking, sleeping, changing clothes, and storing gear. The best layouts fit habits, not hashtags. Overestimating How Much Happens Inside Most people don’t spend all day inside their van. They cook outside. They hang out outside. The interior should support daily routines, not pretend it’s a living room. Locking in Layout Too Early People sometimes finalize layouts before they’ve clarified how they’ll actually use the van. Once cabinets go in, changes get expensive and time-consuming. Purpose should drive layout – not the other way around. The One Thing I Recommend Almost Everyone Do If you take only one piece of advice from this, it’s this: Use a van before you build one. Rent one. Borrow one. Spend a day at a van show walking through different layouts. Lie on the beds. Pretend to cook. Move around like it’s yours. I’ve watched people completely change their plans after a single weekend. That’s not failure – that’s information. Here is a link to an outstanding van festival partner of ours, where you can go see 100s of vans in a single day. There are many others like it - find one that works for you and go check it out. Defining Your Purpose in Simple Terms You don’t need a long document. You just need clarity. Try writing one sentence: “I’m building a van for [number of] people, used mostly for [1-2 activities & duration], in [primary] climates, typically staying in [type of environment].” Here are a few potential examples: I’m building a van for 2 people, used mostly for weekend getaways, in warmer climates, typically staying in campgrounds near beaches. I’m building a van for 2-4 people, used mostly for weeklong mountain climbing trips, in cool to cold climates, typically staying in remote areas. If you can’t fill in this sentence confidently, you’re not ready to design the build yet. Once you can, everything else gets easier. Why This Step Saves Time and Money When purpose is clear: Layout decisions make sense System sizing becomes obvious You avoid redoing work later The build process feels calmer When the purpose is vague, every decision feels heavy. You second-guess everything. You chase edge cases you’ll never actually encounter. Clarity early makes the entire build smoother. What Comes Next Once you’ve defined your purpose, the next step is turning that into a layout that supports daily life. That’s where decisions like bed style, kitchen placement, and storage start to matter. That’s what I’ll cover next. Frequently Asked Questions About Planning a Camper Van Build What does “start with purpose” mean when building a camper van? Starting with purpose means clearly defining how you will actually use the van before making design or purchasing decisions. That includes how often you’ll travel, where you’ll camp, how many people will sleep inside, and whether you’ll rely on hookups or live off-grid (and for how long). Those answers should guide every major decision that follows. Why is purpose more important than camper van layout or gear? Layout and gear choices only make sense once you understand your purpose. Without that clarity, it’s easy to build a van that looks good but doesn’t work well day to day. Purpose keeps you from overbuilding, overspending, or designing for situations that rarely happen. How do I figure out my camper van’s purpose if I’m new to vanlife? The fastest way is to experience vanlife firsthand. Renting or borrowing a van for a weekend often teaches more than months of planning. Pay attention to what you actually use, what you don’t, and what feels inconvenient — those insights should shape your build. Should I design my van for full-time living or weekend trips? That depends entirely on how you plan to use it. A full-time van usually needs more robust systems, storage, and comfort features. A weekend or part-time van can stay simpler and more flexible. Trying to build one van to do everything often leads to compromises that don’t fully satisfy either use case. What’s the most common mistake people make when planning a van build? Designing for an imagined lifestyle instead of real habits. Many people plan for entertaining, elaborate cooking, or perfect conditions that rarely happen. Starting with purpose helps avoid building features that look good on paper but don’t add value in daily use. Can my van’s purpose change over time? Yes, and it often does. That’s why starting with a clear initial purpose — and designing with some flexibility — matters. A well-planned van can adapt as travel styles, work situations, or priorities change. For example, I strongly recommend that you build your electrical system so that it can accommodate future expansion (e.g., more batteries, bigger cables). That’s why I’ve always installed extra wires in my van builds because I want them to be upgradable, either for the current or a future owner. Do I need to have every detail figured out before I start building? No. You don’t need every detail finalized, but you do need a clear direction. Knowing your primary use case helps you make better decisions as questions come up during the build, even if some details evolve along the way. Building in flexibility also gives you time to change your mind, either now or in the future. How does starting with purpose save time and money? Purpose prevents unnecessary complexity. When you know how the van will be used, you’re less likely to buy gear you don’t need, redesign layouts mid-build, or undo work later. Clear intent leads to fewer mistakes and a smoother build process. That’s why I strongly recommend renting or borrowing a van at least a few times before building one — so you actually know what you want.
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Victron Energy Cables: Explained!
VE.Bus, VE.CAN, VE.Direct, Wakespeed, SeeLevel and more! We hope you’re sitting down to read this blog, because this post covers the super exciting topic of communication cables! Victron Energy currently offers more than 20 different communication cables for their electrical devices, and that doesn’t include even more “cables” that Victron chooses to call “sensors”. But don’t worry, we’re not here to bore you with long descriptions of every single cable available. We’re here to bore you with just a handful of the popular cables needed for camper van electrical systems. Cable-shaming aside, the numerous Victron electrical devices, protocols, and cables that are required for your system can be a confusing topic. And you need to have the correct cables for your system to work properly. So let’s dive in. All of these cables (and more!) are laid out in our camper van electrical system blog posts and corresponding free example wiring diagrams. If those posts plus this blog still doesn’t make it clear, we are always happy to help so please contact us. This guide focuses on Victron Energy system cables – the data and communication cables that let Victron components share information and work together (VE.Bus, VE.CAN, VE.Direct, and related adapters). This guide does not cover battery or inverter power cable sizing (which requires a separate fuse and wire-size approach). Table of Contents Here’s a list of all of the super exciting cables covered in this blog. Victron Cable Top 3 VE.Bus / VE.CAN VE.Direct Battery Extension Other Useful Cables RJ10 Temperature sensor Wakespeed to Victron crossover RV-C to VE.CAN adapter Keep reading for all the gory cable details. But check out this at-a-glance table to whet your cable appetite. Cable type Device it connects to Typical cable quantity VE.Bus Multiplus 1 VE.CAN Lynx Shunt Lynx BMS 1 VE.Direct SmartShunt Orion XS MPPT Charge Controller 1 per device if you have a Cerbo Battery Extension Lynx BMS 1 RJ10 Lynx Distributor 1 (included with Lynx Distributor) Temperature sensor Multiplus 1 (included with Multiplus) Wakespeed to Victron crossover Wakespeed WS500 & Pro 1 RV-C to VE.CAN adapter SeeLevel panel 1 Victron Cable Top 3 Here are the three most-needed cables for Victron equipment in your rig. VE.Bus / VE.CAN Cables are Ethernet-style cables used by higher-power and higher-speed Victron devices such as Multiplus inverter/chargers, Lynx Shunts, and Lynx Smart BMS. Cerbo GX communication centers connect to those high power/speed devices and have both VE.Bus ports and VE.CAN ports, which are connections using different protocols for different devices that confusingly but conveniently happen to share the same cable type. VE.Direct Cables are proprietary cables used by lower-power and lower-cost Victron devices such as SmartShunts, Orion XS DC-DC chargers, and SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controllers. Typically, VE.Direct cables are used to connect these devices to a Cerbo GX. M8 (Circular) Battery Extension Cables are used to connect Lithium Smart & NG batteries communications to an external Smart BMS. More details about these cables are covered below. And don’t you worry, we’ll touch on a few more important cables too! Most Victron devices have only one type of communication, therefore you only need to understand one cable per device. The main exception is the Cerbo GX communication center, which supports almost all of the communication & cable types in order to function as a center-of-communications. If you have a Cerbo in your system, which is highly recommended, then we suggest auditing your other Victron devices and temporarily ignoring the Cerbo itself. After all, all of those other devices will be connected to the Cerbo, and let’s not further confuse things by double-counting cables. Lastly, if you don’t have a Cerbo GX, then you probably just need one VE.Bus / VE.CAN cable for your Multiplus inverter/charger. Keep reading for funsies, but that may be all you need to know! VE.Bus / VE.CAN Cables Most camper van electrical systems have a Multiplus inverter/charger, and Multiplus devices are VE.Bus products. In addition to Multiplus devices, some standalone BMS devices use VE.Bus. VE.Bus runs the Victron MK2/MK3 protocol, which is a fancy way of saying Victron uses a proprietary, serial communication protocol for their Multiplus & other VE.Bus products. VE.CAN devices typically used in camper vans include Lynx Shunts, Lynx Smart BMS, and certain higher-powered MPPT Charge Controllers. VE.CAN runs a CAN protocol that supports a mix of Victron proprietary and 3rd party “structures”. We’ll talk about some of that 3rd party support a little bit later in Other Useful Cables. Both the VE.Bus and VE.CAN communication ports use the same cable. We offer several of the most popular lengths of VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables in our store. How many VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables do you need? If you do not have a Cerbo in your system, the answer is likely one, which would be the number of Multiplus inverter/charger devices in your rig. You’ll still want one cable to configure and update firmware in your Multiplus even if you don’t use a Cerbo. You may also want to understand Victron dongles in that case. If you do have a Cerbo, then prepare for math. This is not so tough math where the answer is typically one or two. Add up the number of Multiplus inverter/chargers, then add one more if you have a Lynx Shunt or BMS. Even if you have a ton of solar and use a MPPT with VE.CAN, those devices also have VE.Direct ports; you must use one cable or the other (not both together) on those MPPTs, and we find it easiest to stick with VE.Direct for all MPPT Charge Controllers. Our suggestion is to buy a longer cable than you think is necessary. The cost difference between the common cable lengths is negligible. It’s best to coil up any excess cable when you’re dressing your completed system. Don’t short yourself (literally!) and make maintenance or future changes difficult. You can use off-the-shelf Ethernet cables with couplers to extend these cables, but if you do please use high quality CAT6e cables. Your critical Multiplus & BMS information relies on good quality communication, and that means you need good quality cables. Terminators are mini-cables, and they can be confusing too. Those blue things that come in your Cerbo box that look like Ethernet connectors with no wire? That’s the terminators we’re talking about. What do you do with the terminators? Do not use terminators on the VE.Bus. Any unused VE.Bus ports on your Multiplus or on your Cerbo can remain open & unused. Unused VE.CAN ports require terminators. Any unused CAN port on your Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS needs a terminator. Cerbo GX devices have two “sets” of CAN ports, one labeled VE.CAN and one labeled BMS-CAN. Any unused port in a “set” that is used needs a terminator. Hopefully a picture is worth a thousand words, and the next section makes that clear. BONUS Cerbo GX VE.Bus and VE.CAN Connections: Explained! We know that some of you are drifting off already. Stay frosty! If you’re going to learn about cables, it’s probably pretty important to plug the cables into the right places too. Don’t forget that all of these cables are nicely laid out in our example wiring diagrams too. This blog is focused on the popular communication cables for Victron equipment. Those popular cable locations on the Cerbo are highlighted below. When looking at the front face of the Cerbo, there are six Ethernet-like ports in a row along the back of the device (closest to the mounting surface); these six ports are the VE.Bus and VE.CAN ports (right to left). The purple box shows the two VE.Bus ports. Typically you’ll use one of the two ports for your Multiplus inverter/charger connection, and the remaining one will be empty. The blue boxes show the two “sets” of two CAN ports, titled VE.CAN and BMS-CAN. These are two separate CAN buses that can be configured to use different protocols and speeds. We recommend that your Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS (and maybe your Wakespeed regulator as part of your secondary alternator system) use the VE.CAN ports. If you have additional CAN devices such as batteries with Victron communications or a SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit, those can use the BMS-CAN port. Remember that if you use only one of the two ports in a “set”, the remaining port in that “set” needs a terminator. If you don’t use the VE.CAN ports or the BMS-CAN ports at all, then no worries a terminator isn’t critical. Above the VE.CAN and VE.Bus ports (closest to the pretty blue front cover and away from the mounting surface), there is another row with a bunch of different port types. The red box shows the Cerbo Ethernet port. As in not Ethernet-like but really Ethernet for a connection to a Starlink or additional router. Many customers confuse this port on the top row for a VE.Bus connection. The green boxes show the VE.Direct ports, and those are important for the next type of popular communication cables. VE.Direct Cables Victron devices with VE.Direct communication include the SmartShunts,, newer Orion XS DC-DC chargers (XS 50 and XS 1400; unfortunately none of the previous generation Smart DC-DC chargers support VE.Direct), and almost every BlueSolar and SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller (except some very old and low-power versions not typical in camper vans at this point). If you have upgraded from a BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor to add a Cerbo, you will also benefit from using the VE.Direct port on the monitor. VE.Direct is a proprietary serial interface that uses Victron-specific VE.Direct cables available in many lengths through our store. How many VE.Direct cables do you need? If you do not have a Cerbo in your system, you do not need any VE.Direct cables. If you do have a Cerbo, then prepare for some more math. But this is still fingers-on-one-hand kind of math, so don’t worry. Add up the number of Orion XS DC-DC Chargers (typically one or two), then add the number of MPPT Charge Controllers (typically one or two), and then add one more if you have a SmartShunt or a BMV-712. If you counted past three, read the next paragraph. You’ll need from zero to three VE.Direct cables in a system. Keep in mind that the Cerbo GX provides three VE.Direct ports (those green ones in the Cerbo pic above). If you have a robust system with more than three VE.Direct devices, you will need to expand your empire by using a VE.Direct to USB Interface Cable for the 4th (and even 5th?) VE.Direct device. The interface cable includes the USB end and the VE.Direct end, so you do not have to add yet another VE.Direct cable. Those additional VE.Direct devices would plug into USB ports on the Cerbo instead. As in the VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables, our suggestion is to buy a longer VE.Direct cable than you think is necessary. It’s not practical to extend VE.Direct cables. It’s best to buy long and coil up any excess cable when you’re dressing your completed system. M8 (Circular) Battery Extension Cables M8 Battery Extension Cables can be used to extend the BMS communication cable pigtails that come attached to Victron Lithium Smart and NG batteries. The pigtails on the batteries are 20 in long, so in most practical camper van electronic system layouts one M8 Battery Extension Cable (pair) is required to connect your battery bank to your BMS. M8 Battery Extension Cables come as a pair, and our store has several Battery Extension Cable length options to choose from. How many M8 Battery Extension Cables do you need? If you do not have a Victron ‘external BMS’ system using Lithium Smart or NG batteries, then you do not need any M8 Battery Extension Cables. If you do have a Victron ‘external BMS’ system using Lithium Smart or NG batteries, then you likely need one M8 Battery Extension Cable (pair). In keeping with our cable length theme, make sure that you select a long enough cable to allow for Manhattan routing and room for maintenance. A little extra coiled up cable is a wise choice. Other Useful Cables Here are four more cables for Victron systems worthy of a quick discussion. 1) The RJ10 cable Yes, Victron calls it the “RJ10 cable” and nothing more, so we’re sticking with that. Every Lynx Distributor comes with a 15 inch, 4-pin cable that is essentially an old telephone cord. (Let’s just assume you’re old enough to understand that reference! If not, ignore.) The RJ10 cable allows a Lynx Shunt or Smart or NG BMS to power the Distributor LEDs and report blown fuse detection. If you don’t have a Lynx Shunt or Smart BMS, then you do not need to use that RJ10 cable. If you really want to see those Lynx Distributor LEDs on without a Lynx Shunt or BMS, then check out the Turning On The LED Lights On The Lynx Distributor hack at the end of this blog. 2) Temperature sensor for Multiplus or Cerbo GX Your Multiplus inverter/charger comes with a temperature sensor (aka cable) that is typically used to measure battery temperature by attaching the ring lug to the negative post. This cable can also be used as an input to a Cerbo GX. If you have Victron Lithium Smart or NG batteries, or if you’re using batteries with Victron communications in conjunction with DVCC, then you do not need to use the temperature sensor. For systems with internal BMS batteries without communication, using the temperature sensor with your Multiplus is a wise approach to prevent damaging your batteries in extreme temperatures. If you misplaced (lost!) the cable that was included with your Multiplus, it is also available in our store. 3) Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable If you’re using a secondary alternator system for massive charging power, you’ll likely want to include a Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable. This cable supports the CAN communication between your BMS (via the Cerbo) and a 3rd party device, the Wakespeed regulator. Don’t forget that the blue end of the crossover cable plugs into your Victron equipment, and the black end of the crossover plugs into your Wakespeed regulator. A black terminator is also included, and that plugs into the unused CAN port on your Wakespeed. The Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable is 4’ long, and the cable can be extended with a high-quality Ethernet cable and coupler. 4) RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel This SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit is a nice addition to systems with a Cerbo GX. This 3rd party kit is actually a nice addition to any system, but you won’t worry about the RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel cable unless you have a Cerbo! This cable plugs into the back of a Garnet SeeLevel 709-N2K-NLP panel and allows the RV-C protocol to plug into one of the Cerbo CAN ports (either VE.CAN or BMS-CAN, as you’ll need to change the protocol and speed as part of configuration). RV-C uses CAN, so yes you need to use terminators. The terminator for the panel is included as part of the adapter cable, but don’t forget to use the blue terminator in any unused CAN port at your Cerbo. The RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel is 6’ long, and the cable can be extended with a high-quality Ethernet cable and coupler. Wrap Up - Cable Selection Guide At A Glance Whether you program your Multiplus with a dongle or through your Cerbo GX, you’ll still need a VE.Bus cable. Your device What to buy Have a Multiplus? Add one VE.CAN / VE.Bus cable If you have a Cerbo GX, and we highly recommend that you do, follow this guide: Your device What to buy Have a Lynx Shunt or Lynx BMS? Add one VE.CAN / VE.Bus cable Have a SmartShunt or BMV-712? Add one VE.Direct cable Have a Orion XS 50 or XS 1400 DC-DC Charger? Add one VE.Direct cable for each charger Have a MPPT Charge Controller? Add one VE.Direct cable for each controller Have a Wakespeed WS500? Add one Wakespeed to Victron crossover cable Have a SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit? Add one RV-C to VE.CAN adapter But it’s okay if you don’t have a Cerbo. You probably do not require any more communication cables. Frequently Asked Questions 1. How many VE.Direct devices can a Cerbo support? The Cerbo GX allows up to three VE.Direct cables to be plugged in. For additional VE.Direct devices, use a VE.Direct to USB Interface Cable instead. Those additional VE.Direct devices will use USB ports on the Cerbo. 2. Do I need terminators for VE.CAN? Plug terminators into unused CAN ports. Use blue terminators on unused Victron VE.CAN ports. Use black terminators on unused Wakespeed CAN ports. Do not use terminators on unused VE.Bus ports. 3. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.CAN? VE.Bus and VE.CAN are both communications protocols, but the protocols use different technologies and are supported by different types of products. Multiplus inverter/chargers are VE.Bus products. Lynx Shunts and BMS use VE.CAN. Both VE.Bus and VE.CAN use the same cables. 4. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.Direct? VE.Bus and VE.Direct are both communication protocols, however they use different cables and work on different devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers. 5. Can I extend Victron cables? VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables, a Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable, and a RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel can all be extended using high quality Ethernet cables and couplers. It is not practical to extend VE.Direct cables - buy a longer cable. Additional Resources Victron Cables product information Victron Data Communication white pape Secondary Alternator Example Power System Accurate Tank Monitoring with a Cerbo GX and SeeLeve Free example wiring diagrams
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